Bustling and chaotic, Gujarat state's capital Ahmedabad is at first glance just like any other Indian city. But give it a bit of time and you'll notice a difference. There's no hassle. No touts, no persistent rickshaw drivers, no beggars, no shopkeepers calling out as you pass. The only attention you'll receive is in the form of cheerful greetings from curious locals. This could possibly be India's friendliest city.
There are a few sights to occupy you if you have a day to spare here, as we did after watching New Zealand thrash Zimbabwe in the world cup cricket. The spooky Dada Hari step well, built in the 16th century as a communal water source, comprises a staircase leading down to a small octagonal well a few storeys below ground. Carved stone columns hold up a semi-roof, allowing dusty strips of sunlight into the lower depths. The stone walls are intricately carved with floral designs and Arabic script (the well was built during Mughal rule). There are many such constructions in Gujarat and Rajasthan, their elaborate carving reflecting the importance of water in these drought-prone northwestern states.
The modern city also conceals a number of historic houses, tombs and mosques, including the beautiful, open-air Sidi Sayad mosque. Open on three sides to keep worshippers cool, the 16th century cloistered stone structure features intricate, lace-like carved screens - some depicting organic tree and leaf designs, others geometric patterns.
Museum buffs will also be at home here, with an eclectic selection including a kite museum, utensil museum and the Calico Museum of Textiles, with its world-leading collection of Indian silks.
But that's enough sightseeing - it's time to eat. With 90% of the population vegetarian, Gujarati cuisine is balanced and varied enough to satisfy even the most dedicated carnivore. Protein-rich lentil dishes sit alongside a mind-boggling array of snacks, side dishes and main courses. It's well worth giving yourself extra time in Ahmedabad just for the food.
Two of the city's best eateries can be found at the House of MG, a wonderful boutique hotel housed in a historic merchant's house near the river. At the casual Green House restaurant downstairs, the extensive snack-focused menu offers treats such as makai ghugra (deep-fried crispy dumplings filled with onion, cabbage, almonds and coriander); and bataka vada (balls of light gram flour batter enclosing spicy mixed vegetables flavoured with herbs and chilli). They're all served with lashings of hot and sweet dark red chilli sauce, fiery green chilli sauce and a dried red chilli to crumble over.
Come back for dinner to try unique Gujarati curries based around small gram flour dumplings, vegetables or paneer cheese.
The hotel's rooftop restaurant, Agashiye, dishes up legendary thalis (traditional round alloy plates holding a variety of mini-dishes) on a grand and delicious scale. The daily-changing offering comprises several vegetable preparations - we had okra curry, spiced potatoes and a complex and delicate dhal - with four different accompanying curry sauces; two of them milky and slightly sweet, a unique feature of Gujarat's food. There were so many different chutneys - some hot, others sweet - that they required a separate plate on the side. Two types of roti bread, two types of poppadom and sweet, sticky Gujarati rice thrown in will have you loosening the belt buckle a notch or two.
The only downfall - Gujarat is under total prohibition, so there'll be no cold Kingfisher to wash your curry down with. Don't let that put you off visiting though - foreigners can easily obtain liquor permits from the major hotels.
There are a few sights to occupy you if you have a day to spare here, as we did after watching New Zealand thrash Zimbabwe in the world cup cricket. The spooky Dada Hari step well, built in the 16th century as a communal water source, comprises a staircase leading down to a small octagonal well a few storeys below ground. Carved stone columns hold up a semi-roof, allowing dusty strips of sunlight into the lower depths. The stone walls are intricately carved with floral designs and Arabic script (the well was built during Mughal rule). There are many such constructions in Gujarat and Rajasthan, their elaborate carving reflecting the importance of water in these drought-prone northwestern states.
The modern city also conceals a number of historic houses, tombs and mosques, including the beautiful, open-air Sidi Sayad mosque. Open on three sides to keep worshippers cool, the 16th century cloistered stone structure features intricate, lace-like carved screens - some depicting organic tree and leaf designs, others geometric patterns.
Museum buffs will also be at home here, with an eclectic selection including a kite museum, utensil museum and the Calico Museum of Textiles, with its world-leading collection of Indian silks.
But that's enough sightseeing - it's time to eat. With 90% of the population vegetarian, Gujarati cuisine is balanced and varied enough to satisfy even the most dedicated carnivore. Protein-rich lentil dishes sit alongside a mind-boggling array of snacks, side dishes and main courses. It's well worth giving yourself extra time in Ahmedabad just for the food.
Two of the city's best eateries can be found at the House of MG, a wonderful boutique hotel housed in a historic merchant's house near the river. At the casual Green House restaurant downstairs, the extensive snack-focused menu offers treats such as makai ghugra (deep-fried crispy dumplings filled with onion, cabbage, almonds and coriander); and bataka vada (balls of light gram flour batter enclosing spicy mixed vegetables flavoured with herbs and chilli). They're all served with lashings of hot and sweet dark red chilli sauce, fiery green chilli sauce and a dried red chilli to crumble over.
Come back for dinner to try unique Gujarati curries based around small gram flour dumplings, vegetables or paneer cheese.
The hotel's rooftop restaurant, Agashiye, dishes up legendary thalis (traditional round alloy plates holding a variety of mini-dishes) on a grand and delicious scale. The daily-changing offering comprises several vegetable preparations - we had okra curry, spiced potatoes and a complex and delicate dhal - with four different accompanying curry sauces; two of them milky and slightly sweet, a unique feature of Gujarat's food. There were so many different chutneys - some hot, others sweet - that they required a separate plate on the side. Two types of roti bread, two types of poppadom and sweet, sticky Gujarati rice thrown in will have you loosening the belt buckle a notch or two.
The only downfall - Gujarat is under total prohibition, so there'll be no cold Kingfisher to wash your curry down with. Don't let that put you off visiting though - foreigners can easily obtain liquor permits from the major hotels.
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