Prague

Touching down on a white runway amid a snow storm was a thrilling introduction to a chilly late November weekend in Prague. With the mercury hovering around the low single digits, even a steamy cup of mulled wine at the Christmas market failed to warm frozen fingers. After sampling some of the food on offer - legs of ham roasting on a rotisserie over a wood fire; and dough wrapped around wooden batons, grilled over charcoal until crisp outside and fluffy inside, then rolled in sugar and crunchy almonds - we made a beeline for the cosy warmth of a traditional pub.

Staropramen and Pilsner Urquell seem ordinary to me in London pubs but they must be brewed differently in the Czech Republic. Or maybe it was just the relief of being in from the cold. Either way, the golden pilsner was restorative and delicious. Best of all, it was cheap - with a round of tankards for four coming in at just over four pounds.


Next stop was a traditional beer hall, hidden up a steep cobbled lane near Prague Castle. Three types of pilsner were on offer, at varying strengths, and we enjoyed a few as the tableful of locals next to us burst into rowdy song.


Dinner was at a restaurant in Mala Strana, just over the medieval Charles Bridge from the old town, set inside a 14th century vaulted cellar. After scoffing huge helpings of boar chops and venison, we swore we would never eat again... until the next day brought sub-zero temperatures once more, meaning a visit to the hilltop Prague Castle was like an Arctic expedition. Chilled to the bone, we retreated to a rustic wood-stove-heated pub in the Jewish quarter. Massive plates of pork knee and rich, slow-cooked beef goulash warmed us, washed down with yet more pilsner, and set us up well for our overnight train trip to Krakow that night.