Goreme, the peaceful little village built in and around ancient volcanic rock pinnacles in central Turkey, is a welcome change from all the cities we have been spending time in recently. Sitting on the hotel terrace in the pale but warm December sun I have a perfect view of the cave houses carved into the "fairy chimney" rocks, vying with minarets to be the skyscrapers of Cappadocia. In my hand is a glass of local red wine; a ruby-red, berry-flavoured blend of two grape varieties: Okuzgozu and Bogazkere. The only sounds are emanating from birds. After an overnight train trip from Istanbul to Ankara, followed by a four-hour bus trip to get here, I decide I'm in heaven and resolve to do nothing else today but look at the view, become further acquainted with the local fermented grape juice and have dinner.
We found the latter easily - being December, the village was eerily quiet and we had the pick of the dozen or so restaurants open at this time of year. At Cappadocia Pide House, reputed to produce Goreme's best pide (Turkish pizza), we started with a spicy minced lamb version, the home-made dough fluffy and crispy in just the right places.
We opted to sample a couple of the region's own dishes next. Chicken "sac tava", a rich, tomatoey, oniony stew, arrived simmering in an iron dish on top of a paraffin flame. Much more exciting, however, was the "desti kebab" of beef, onions and spicy tomato sauce, slow-cooked in a sealed terracotta jug and presented at our table by the chef who demonstrated the correct technique for smashing the top off with a sturdy knife.
The best way to see the region's unique landforms is by hot air balloon. Early every morning, weather-permitting, a flock of balloons rises over the valley ridges near Goreme, silently drifting up and down over the fairy chimneys and ancient frescoed cave churches, as the sun creeps above the horizon and throws a gold blanket over the landscape.
We found the latter easily - being December, the village was eerily quiet and we had the pick of the dozen or so restaurants open at this time of year. At Cappadocia Pide House, reputed to produce Goreme's best pide (Turkish pizza), we started with a spicy minced lamb version, the home-made dough fluffy and crispy in just the right places.
We opted to sample a couple of the region's own dishes next. Chicken "sac tava", a rich, tomatoey, oniony stew, arrived simmering in an iron dish on top of a paraffin flame. Much more exciting, however, was the "desti kebab" of beef, onions and spicy tomato sauce, slow-cooked in a sealed terracotta jug and presented at our table by the chef who demonstrated the correct technique for smashing the top off with a sturdy knife.
The best way to see the region's unique landforms is by hot air balloon. Early every morning, weather-permitting, a flock of balloons rises over the valley ridges near Goreme, silently drifting up and down over the fairy chimneys and ancient frescoed cave churches, as the sun creeps above the horizon and throws a gold blanket over the landscape.
you left out the best bit of the story, surely ;)
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